Tucked away in the upscale IAPM mall is Shanghai’s very own Gucci restaurant, 1921 Gucci. The restaurant joins the growing trend of restaurants opening under designer’s names like the Ralph Lauren restaurant in Chicago and the Armani restaurant in Dubai. The restaurant itself is located above the Gucci store so it is accessible via the mall and from a private elevator from within the store itself (in case you get hungry while deciding which purse to buy). We were greeted by a flamboyant Italian man who looked like he just stepped out of a Gucci ad. Although he was dressed in head to toe Gucci, his level of Gucci authenticity was unfortunately not carried throughout the restaurant. Our table was not ready so we elected to have some drinks at the bar; the bar area had a lounge hotel bar atmosphere with a beautiful slab of granite as the bar surface. It was very clean and modern, almost in the sense that it would have looked just like any other upscale bar if it had not been for the Gucci branding on the napkins. The bartender meticulously prepared the four drinks we ordered over the course of half an hour. It felt painfully long and the meticulousness of the bartender seemed unnecessary – especially since it caused the drinks to take so long to be made. When our table was finally ready we were led into the dining area. Similar to the bar area, the dining section was decorated with a minimalistic yet cozy décor; however, the entire restaurant felt empty and unwelcoming. There was a clear attempt to make it warm and inviting by adding decorative pillows and wood paneling, but one would expect that since Gucci designers designed this space there would be more creativity. Also, the lack of diners on Saturday night added to the empty, impersonal atmosphere. The menu consisted of classic Italian food with a modern twist. We ordered the lamb and a steak. They were both beautifully prepared and the steak was arguably one of the best I have had in Shanghai; unfortunately, the lamb was a different story. The lamb shank was more fat then meat and was overcooked to the point that it was almost impossible to chew and swallow without getting it stuck in your throat. The side dishes included steamed asparagus and steak potatoes, which were both artfully prepared but lacking in flavor. There was an obvious emphasis on the appearance rather than flavor of the food.

In the end, we left disappointed. It was not enough of a superior experience to match the Gucci name. With the famous name of the restaurant comes an expectation of something different or unique, in line with the way that Gucci produces a unique collection each season. I would recommend the restaurant only for drinks and coffee; there are much better restaurants in Shanghai that serve better food at the same price range.

This article was written by Abel Hegyes. Send an email to [email protected] to get in touch. Photo Credit: Abel Hegyes