“Exploring the Mystery of Gansu and Qinghai”

After suffering the tension of the Gaokao, nothing was more exciting for us three young adults than traveling without parents. The Gaokao is momentous for every Chinese student, and it symbolizes a turning point where we enter the world of adulthood. We were like young birds who just learnt to fly, longing to prove how independent and brave we were. Hence, we all agreed that our first trip alone should be absolutely special and memorable. A piece of reading in one of our Chinese tests, which described the spectacular murals in Mogao Ku, came to mind. Admittedly, the murals appeared mundane during the test, however, they triggered our curiosity in a guidebook. As a result, western China, the starting point of the Silk Road, usually associated with magnificent murals and ringing camel bells, became our destination.

Crossing Through China on the Train

From Shanghai to our first destination, Dunhuang, in Gansu Province, we traveled from nearly the easternmost point of China to the westernmost. Traveling by train, which takes 36 hours to cross 5 provinces (Jiangsu, Anhui, Henan, Shanxi, Gansu), the great differences in scenery and climate are shocking. From the shining skyscrapers in Shanghai to rounding mountains against the cloudy sky, from the glittering apartment blocks to the low brick houses in the countryside, from uninterrupted green trees to uninterrupted, immense desert, we seemed to witness the rewinding of China’s modernization and experience a return to the peace of nature from the bustle of the city. The contrast between modern industrial civilization and the rustic countryside conjured up images of an ancient prosperous trade route. Suddenly we were beginning to realize that we were just negligible descendents who wanted to trace our ancestors’ footprints. We felt tiny.

There were always other tourists getting on the train in every city we passed, joining us in this long journey. All of us, with different backgrounds, crowded in the tiny space of the train, face-to-face, picked up casual topics to kill time. A young mother and her six-year-old daughter slept opposite to us. After chatting with them, we learned they were from Zhejiang province and had planned the same trip as us. “I wouldn’t allow my daughter to travel such a long distance at your age without me,” the mother told us, just as any Chinese parent would do. Before we could reply, she left us to follow her daughter, who was wandering into the next carriage.

Chatting was the most pleasant thing on the train, but falling asleep was by far the most difficult. Beds on the hard sleeper trains were three-tiered: the highest bed shook the most, while the lowest jolted the most, so the middle bed was the most comfortable, despite the train engine’s roaring noise. The train reminded us that not all traveling involves luxurious hotels and king-sized beds.

After a night of restlessness, we suddenly found ourselves in the Gobi desert, a place we had only seen in our high school geography textbooks. As the morning rays of sunshine illuminated the mountains on the horizon, we were energized as we realized that Dunhuang was approaching.

Dunhuang: Cultural Center Yesterday, Tourist Destination Today

Camels for tourists to ride at the Singing Sand Dunes.

As a historical center of culture, regarded by ancient merchants as a foothold on the Silk Road, Dunhuang has transformed itself into a tourist city. Hotels can be seen all around the downtown. The Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Spring, two tourist attractions, are just a fifteen-minute drive from the city center. The name, “Singing Sand Dunes,” is derived from a tale that the dunes would make a sound in the wind. The reality is that few people have had the chance to hear the sands “singing.”

Crescent Spring near Singing Sand Dunes.

In China, supposedly old tales always accompany scenic destinations, which help attract tourists. The dunes are only 100 to 200 meters in height, but it took a long time to reach the top by foot. As an old saying goes, “You will slip down two steps each three steps you climb up.” Thus, riding camels to the top has become extremely popular. We could differentiate strong camels from the weak by the size of their humps. In most cases, strong camels carry more plump and hairy humps. Choosing a strong camel is much steadier and safer. Luckily, I was assigned to a strong and cute camel, but I still heard it wheeze when carrying me up to the top. I worried that they would never have a chance to rest with so many tourists.

Surrounded by trees, with some pavilions, the green Crescent Spring is very aesthetically appealing in the desert. The spring amazed the first explorers who found it. However, the size of Crescent Spring has been rapidly shrinking in recent years.

Mogao Ku: The Representative of Chinese Buddhism Culture

In addition to the dunes and springs, Mogao Ku, one of the four most famous caves in China, is famous for its magnificence and murals. There are a total of 492 artificial caves featuring murals painted during different dynasties. The distinctive features in color and content are unique to the dynasty during which it was created. The content portrays Buddhist stories, and the caves themselves witnessed Buddhism’s rise and decline in China. Now, though, tourism is restricted. Each tourist is allowed to visit a maximum of eight caves (without cameras), and each cave has a carbon dioxide detector to protect the precious artwork.

We followed the tour guide into a cave, which offered a welcome relief from the burning sunlight outside. The cave felt small, dark, and isolated. Someone turned on a flashlight, and three Buddha Statues seemed to materialize in front of me, holy and peaceful, sitting there with their legs crossed. Noticing the now illuminated walls, we realized the walls were filled with murals of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and flying dancers. The figures, wearing loose clothing, depicted sitting, talking, and dancing with placid expressions. Some colors had faded, but it was not hard to imagine how colorful their original appearance was. We wished we could visit all the caves.

The famous Nine-Story Building in Mogaoku being repaired (left) and flying dancers (Fei Tian in Chinese), common figures in murals (right).

Recommended Scenic Spot in Dunhuang: Shazhou Night Market

Local snacks, beer, street barbecue, souvenirs, and more can all be found in the Shazhou Night Market, which is the best place to hang out with friends and experience the night life. With so many choices, we ended up overeating!

Jiayuguan: Chinese Defense Wisdom and Frontier Soldiers’ Homesickness

Jiayuguan is the first checkpoint of the western end of the Great Wall, dedicated to preventing the invasion from nomadic tribes. Ancient Chinese defense strategy emphasizes taking advantage of the terrain of the battleground, so Jiayuguan was built in the valley between two mountain chains that serve as a natural barrier. If they don’t get through the checkpoint all the way, it’s even harder to retreat and try again.

A man making "Guan passports" (left) to enter Jiayuguan (right).

Whoever wanted to pass the Jiayuguan in ancient times needed a “Guan passport.”

Thanks to our knowledgeable and talkative tour guide, we learned of many ingenious designs located within the checkpoint. The most intriguing to me was the entrance.

Our tour guide explained that in order to enter the city, enemies first rushed into the entrance on the west. Then, they were blocked by a wall and had to make a right turn to enter. The trick was that being forced to turn slowed down the invasion significantly, so the guards would close the two gates and trap the enemies while they looked for the exit. For the first time, I understood that winning a war requires a lot of wisdom. “These ideas developed only after continuous invasions,” our tour guide said.

A courtyard where ancient military commanders lived (top left), a flag on observatory (top right), and outside Jiayuguan (bottom).

Standing on the rampart, looking over the desert, a horn sounding in the background, I couldn’t help but imagining the feelings of soldiers when they heard the horn. It was not only a signal of a coming war but also an indicator of massive bloodshed. I am sure that despite their strength and courage, a feeling of homesickness would also arise in the hearts of the soldiers. Especially when they were facing the expansive desert, away from their families, without the faintest idea of their destinies, they would be haunted by loneliness. The only spiritual support would have been the hope of coming back to their families again. The faces of their loved ones would become the perpetual theme of their dreams.

Behind numerous wars in history, there always lie stories about numerous broken families. These stories are mostly unknown and unrecorded in the history books. However, in the past, they continuously impacted the Chinese people’s personalities. The change of dynasties, the competition for ruling powers, undoubtedly led to wars. In this way, being apart from their loved ones was so unavoidable that it gradually became the common Chinese living status, accompanied by inevitable feelings of homesickness. This is revealed in old Chinese poems, especially in Tang Dynasty, which describe the frontier soldiers’ life and their homesickness. A frontier soldier’s homesickness would be linked with his family’s homesickness, and consequently, the homesickness spread to the whole society. Now, homesickness is unavoidable for every Chinese who lives or works far away from home, whenever and wherever they think about home.

Recommended scenic spot in Jiayuguan: The Great Valley

A wooden suspension bridge (left) over the Great Valley (right).

It is exciting and terrifying to stand on the glass viewing platform above the fast-flowing river. If you have enough courage, try passing through the suspension bridge.

Climbing over the Riyue Mountain to Qinghai Lake in Qinghai Province

Riyue Mountain was the highest spot in our trip, with an average altitude of 4000 meters. It is a passage to Tibet, and the famous Princess Whencheng entered Tibet from there. During the nearly four hours’ of jolting on the bus crossing the border between Gansu province and Qinghai province, various mountains with strange shapes seemed to embrace us. When we arrived, we felt much colder than we were in Dunhuang, and because of the high altitude and strong wind, it was hard to climb the mountain.

Since it is near Tibet, we could see yak and sheep chewing the grass and religious flags flying, but the pure blue sky and grassland gave the illusion that we were in Mongolia. We attempted to run on the grassland; however, it took a while to adapt the climate there, so eventually we just lay down and enjoyed the beautiful view of the floating clouds.

On the Riyue Mountain.

Climbing over the Riyue Mountain, we reached the one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in China: Qinghai Lake.

I am not exaggerating its beauty. When you see the yellow rapeseed flowers against the background of blue lake, it’s impossible not to list Qinghai Lake as one of the places you want to take your wedding pictures. When you walk along the lake, or play in it, you can’t help but to truly fall in love with its mystery.

Where the blue sky kisses the blue "sea."

Facing the breathtaking scenery, sometimes my camera felt useless, since I was not able to accurately present in pictures what I saw in person. I was disappointed, but I put my camera down, sat on a rock with my friends and put my feet in the lake to feel its purity and coolness. Warm sunlight, gentle breeze, friends’ companionship--everything felt so different from the stressful atmosphere in our high school classrooms just one month ago. Had I not gone through that trying period, could I truly understand this leisurely living state? But I suppose that’s just life. We grow up in a cycle of enduring struggles and new discoveries.

“Detailed information about the spots:”

The Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Spring 鸣沙山和月牙泉 Address: located in southern suburbs seven kilometers away from the Dunhuang downtown, Gansu Province 地址：甘肃省敦煌市南郊七公里处

Mogao Ku 莫高窟 Address: twenty five kilometers southeast away from the Dunhuang downtown, Gansu Province 地址：甘肃省敦煌市东南二十五公里处

Shazhou Night Market 沙洲夜市 Address: Yangguan East Road,Dunhuang City，Gansu Province 地址：甘肃省敦煌市阳关东路

Jiayuguan 嘉峪关关城 Address: six kilometers southwest away from the Jiayuguan City downtown, Gansu Province 地址：甘肃省嘉峪关市西南六公里处

The Riyue Mountain 日月山 Address: forty kilometers southwest away from the Huangyuan County,Qinghai Province 地址：青海省湟源县西南四十公里

Qinghai Lake 青海湖 Address: located in the northeastern Qinghai Province,one hundred and fifty one kilometers away from the city of Xining 地址：青海省东北部，距离西宁市一百五一公里

This article was written by Nancy Gong. Send an email to [email protected] to get in touch. Photo Credit: Nancy Gong